Youth climbing has become a hugely competitive aspect of our sport. Today, we see the likes of Ashima Shiraishi, Mirko Caballero, Cameron and Jonathan Horst as well as Shawn and Brooke Raboutou climbing at an exceptional level at such a young age. They are following in the footsteps of Alex Megos, Adam Ondra and of course Chris Sharma, Dave Graham and Tommy Caldwell.
We see many guidelines on how to train safely for under 18s, but surely this would not allow these guys to achieve such high levels of performance? Do they fingerboard, do they campus board? Do they train?
In my latest article, I have joined up with physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner to ask many questions about training safely as well as approaching Mirko Caballero, Molly Thompson-Smith, Sierra Blair-Coyle and Alex Megos, asking them how they are climbing at this level at their age? Did they follow these “guidelines”? Have they ever been injured? Do they have any words of advice for the next generation?

Find out more by reading my latest article on UKClimbing.com here.